Using the zoom effect in photography. Photography lesson.

Zoom effect

Look at this photo. Most of you will think that all this was done in Photoshop, and that all this is wildly complicated, and you shouldn’t bother with such tricks. This is wrong. Not at all like that. This is not at all as difficult as you might think at first glance. And in today’s article we will try to prove this to you. Take your time and read it. And you will understand that it is very easy to take such pictures.

First we need to talk about what we need for this. First of all, we will need a camera with manual shooting mode. Well, at worst, with a semi-automatic mode. Preferably a DSLR. The second is a variable focal length lens (they are also called zoom lenses). Third, a tripod (you can, of course, risk shooting handheld, but this is for very experienced craftsmen, those whose hands do not shake. And almost everyone does). Well, and fourth, but not mandatory, is an ND filter.

The following is a detailed step-by-step instruction for shooting with zooming during exposure.

First of all, let's think about what we will photograph. Let's say right away: ordinary landscapes or views of city streets during the day are not at all suitable for such photographs. Especially if you have never done such things before. We recommend photographing scenes that contain point light sources. Well, for example, night views of the city with its advertisements, lanterns and car headlights. Or the starry sky outside the city, where the surrounding landscape is not illuminated by bright lanterns. The main thing is not to photograph everything that catches your eye. Don’t forget about the meaning of the future photo, about its composition, about why, in fact, you are taking this photo. What do you want to show them, tell the viewer in the language of photographic art.
Before you start shooting, we strongly recommend that you remember or write down the focal length of the lens on which you will photograph the selected scene.
Now mount the camera on a tripod. Experienced craftsmen need to choose a fulcrum for their own butt or at least back (Wall, fence, tree, parked car...).
In order for the blurring of the image to be clear and even, the shutter speed on the camera needs to be set quite long. To do this, you need to put the camera in manual settings mode or in shutter priority mode and set the shutter speed manually. Which one exactly depends on the plot you choose and on your idea in principle. The shutter speed in such pictures can range from ¼ second to 3 seconds. Of course, you can set a longer shutter speed, but you will do this later, when you gain enough experience.
Now you need to decide on the aperture. If you work in shutter priority mode, the camera's automatic aperture will select the aperture itself. But this is worse. It's better to shoot in full manual mode. In this case, the aperture should be somewhere between f8 - f22. It all depends, again, on what you ultimately want to get in the picture, as well as on the lighting of the scene being photographed. We think that you do not need to repeat the truism that the smaller the aperture opening (that is, the larger the number indicated in its value), the less light will hit the light receiver (matrix) of your camera in the same period of time , to which the shutter opens.
The ISO value (which is light sensitivity) should be set as low as possible. For example, 100 units. So that there is no unnecessary digital noise in the pictures. Ah, dark for ISO 100? Likewise, shutter speed is measured in seconds, and not in hundredths and thousandths, don’t forget about it!
Did you set everything up as needed, as you wanted, but the pictures turned out overexposed? It's no problem. Change your settings. Close the aperture hole narrower. So what if it’s less than f 22. Increase the shutter speed too. If this does not help, install a neutral ND filter on the lens, which will reduce the light output. How many times depends on the density of the filter. It is marked on his frame.
Here you go. Almost everything is ready for photography. Let's start filming. So, we have chosen the plot. The subject is in front of us. Next we proceed like this:

A. Set the focal length adjustment ring on the lens to such a position that there is a slightly larger space in the frame than you plan to show in the photo. Simply put, set the zoom to the minimum focal length. Why is this so? This is necessary so that at the end of the shooting process with zooming, the frame contains exactly the composition, the story that you would like to show the viewer. No more and no less.

B. Focus your camera lens on the object you want. You can also focus on infinity.

B. The most crucial moment in all the work. Place one hand gently on the zoom adjustment ring on the lens. With your other hand, gently press the shutter-release button.

G. The most important and most responsible moment. Your camera shutter is open. Light enters the light receiver. And at this time you carefully rotate the zoom adjustment ring. Moreover, precisely from the smaller value to the larger one. That is, in the direction of approaching. You can, of course, zoom in the opposite direction while shooting, but the effect will be completely different. Which one? Try it and see for yourself. Fortunately, you don’t need to waste film on this. And it will take very little time.

D. That's it. The matter is done by itself. Your camera's shutter closed automatically without your intervention. Exposure, that is, photographing, is over. Something didn’t work out, something didn’t go the way you would like? So what’s stopping you from repeating the shooting? You’re not filming a report, after all! The stars in the sky shine until the morning, the city lights burn until the morning. Turn the zoom adjustment ring faster. And then slow down. Shoot more, do takes. We have already said that you will not need films, as was before.

It's not difficult at all, right? Try photographing different scenes this way. You'll like it. You'll quickly master this simple zoom shooting technique. By the way, the zooming we described can be supplemented with other features. Well, for example, zoom with a break. Turn the zoom adjustment ring a little during exposure and pause. And then they turned again. See what can come of this. Or you can twist the ring forward and backward. Also interesting, right? What if you add a flash while zooming and exposing? In addition to zooming, you can also rotate the camera in different directions and planes... Everything is in your hands! Feel free to bring even your most unusual fantasies to life!

Zoom effect. Photo tricks. Part 6.

Many photographers know about a very unusual and interesting effect using zoom.

Zoom-effect. Photo tricks from Radozhiva. Part 6.

This effect is called the zoom effect . To get such an unusual picture ideally, we need a tripod and a camera with a zoom lens. But even if there is no zoom lens, a regular prime lens is enough.

Simple zoom effect method:

We choose a place we like that we will rent. It is highly desirable that it be in the evening or at night, since we need a very long shutter speed. We install the camera on a tripod. We set up the camera on a tripod for the correct composition of the frame. We select the shutter priority mode; on digital SLR cameras, this mode is designated as S (for Shutter speed), or Tv. We select the maximum permissible shutter speed value, usually 30 seconds. In this mode, the camera itself will select the desired aperture. I advise you to turn off automatic ISO and set it to the minimum acceptable - usually ISO 50, 100, 200, sometimes Lo1. Press the shutter button or use the remote control. The first part of the time interval we simply wait until the matrix is exposed (while the camera is shooting), and then with a sharp movement we change the focal length (we change the zoom). On the central control system the zoom is rotated manually; on compact digital cameras this can be a problem and it will be impossible to change the zoom while shooting. The second part of the time we just wait while the camera takes the next part of the picture. After which the photo with the zoom effect is ready.

It is important to see how the picture will look at two different zoom levels in order to evaluate the final frame.

Problems of shooting with such a zoom effect:
1. It is physically impossible to use a fixed lens; you need either a zoom lens, or legs and the use of multiple exposures.
2. You need a good, powerful and reliable tripod.
As you can see, I didn’t get the zoom effect as I wanted. When I rotated the zoom on my tripod, the camera shook and caused unnecessary blur. I have a rather childish Velbon CX-888/F tripod. 3. To get this effect during the day, you need several ND filters to get a long shutter speed.
4. For an ideal effect with a “pull” zoom, you need a lens with a very smooth change in focal length.
My Tamron 17-50mm F2.8 turned out to be not very suitable and when zooming smoothly it produces a jerky image, no matter how hard I tried. Jerks are shown with red arrows in the example below. 5. When zooming not to the extreme positions of the lens focal length, it is very easy to make a mistake. For example, on my 17-50mm, for the idea of a zoom effect, you first need to shoot at 50mm, and then reduce the zoom to 35mm; if you sharply reduce the zoom ring, you can fly over or undershoot to 35mm. As a result, sometimes you have to shoot multiple takes.

Zoom effect. PHOTO without photoshop

If in shutter priority mode at 30 seconds and minimum ISO the camera writes that the aperture cannot be closed any further, then you need to either reduce the shutter speed or use a neutral density filter, sometimes several. The fact that the camera cannot select the shutter speed on Nikons is indicated by the inscription in the aperture value field HI (high) - this means that the aperture number should be higher than the lens allows. To get the maximum shutter speed, you can set the camera to aperture priority mode and close it down as much as possible (increase the F number). You can also use the shutter control mode B (bulb). Personally, I did all the examples in manual image management mode, it’s more convenient for me.

Classic zoom effect to create a ghost effect

A modification of this effect may not be a sharp change in focal length, but a smooth one, with the light areas forming a kind of “stringy” light line . This effect is sometimes more interesting than the usual option. Below is an example of a photo with a zoom lens at 30s shutter speed. There is a jar of flowers in the frame.

Classic zoom effect to create a stringy effect

Second method of zoom effect without zooming

The same method can be implemented not only using long shutter speeds, but also using multiple exposures. Multiple exposures are carried out either several times with different focal lengths, or with a fixed distance, but in this case you will need to move the camera itself. How to do this - you will find in the article multiple exposure.

Such effects are often used when shooting a city at night, a night landscape, New Year's paraphernalia, and any other creative photography. Either way, I recommend just playing around with your DSLR and trying to come up with an interesting composition. You can see more tricks with long exposures

Conclusion:

By shooting at long shutter speeds and having a zoom lens, you can get interesting artistic effects , examples of which are shown above. The main condition for this effect is the possibility of long exposure and zoom or multiple exposure . Since multiple exposure can be implemented on a computer, even the simplest digital camera can create this Zoom-effect.

Thank you for your attention. Arkady Shapoval.

Using the zoom effect in photography

In search of an original artistic solution, many photographers use various technical techniques when taking photographs. Interesting photographs can be obtained using the capabilities of special lenses. Using the zoom effect in photography allows you to give a static photo the illusion of movement. The article describes how to get unique shots and compositions using the zoom effect, describes some technical techniques and gives recommendations on how to take such photographs correctly.

What is the zoom effect

Zoom lenses for cameras are a complex optical system. By moving the lens, you can change the FR, thereby bringing the photographed object closer or further away. If you smoothly change the focus point at a long shutter speed, this will create an interesting, blurred image in the photograph. You can get it by manually changing the focus adjustment ring. Some cameras have a built-in “Power Zoom” function, where there is an additional “Zoom effect” option. It allows you to automatically change the focus point during photography. Using the zoom effect, you can take photographs where the central part or dominant will be sharp, and the entire surroundings will be blurry or blurry.

How to learn to shoot with zoom effect

Practical work with zoom lenses requires experience and a little training. Blurred photographs are obtained when taking photographs at long exposures. The larger this parameter, the more interesting effects you can get, but, as often happens, excessive passion for maximalism can lead to the opposite result. The entire image in the photograph will be blurred and appear as a set of colored spots. Depending on the degree of lighting, you need to choose a shutter speed such that you have time to turn the focus adjustment ring. The most important thing when photographing with a zoom effect is the complete stillness of the camera. Therefore, to get a good result, you need to use a tripod, or place the camera on a flat and stable surface.

Good compositions with the effect of a blurred image can be obtained by manual photography, but slight camera movements cannot be avoided and “shaking” will be noticeable in the picture. In this way, photographs are taken using a regular lens with a fixed FR. To do this, set a long shutter speed, select the composition of the frame, and the photographer, holding the camera in his hands, begins to approach the subject of photography. The level of this effect when photographing with a tripod depends on the following factors:

Exposure values;
FR range;
Adjustment ring rotation speed;
Moving away from the object being photographed.

Typically, obtaining a blurry effect in a photograph is possible only at intervals of 1/30 of a second, but a good result at such values can only be obtained by automatically changing the focus, since in such a short period of time the photographer’s hand will not have time to turn the adjustment ring. You will have to experiment with the range, speed and smoothness of rotation so that the photographs can be seen how changes in these parameters affect the result. This also applies to the distance to the subject being photographed. To get photos with a zoom effect, you need to do the following:

The camera is mounted on a tripod;
The composition of the frame is specified;
The shutter speed is set to a few seconds;
The lowest sensitivity is selected;
During exposure, the FR changes smoothly.

A few more tips

Before starting photography, it is recommended to select the minimum FR value and experiment with different shutter speeds, starting from 2 seconds. You can, with a shutter operating time of 8 seconds, make a two-second exposure, then gently move the focus ring for four seconds and stop for two seconds at the end of taking the photo. This technique will allow you to sharpen the central part of the frame and “spray” everything else. Since with long exposures the light flux will be exposed to the matrix for too long, the sensitivity should be minimal. Usually this is 50 or 100 units. To avoid overexposure in the photograph, the aperture should be as closed as possible. It happens that these actions are not enough, then when taking photographs, a neutral gray filter is installed on the lens. The focus adjustment ring can be turned not sharply, but gently, this will allow you to get smooth lines. Very good photographs can be obtained by using the zoom effect in the evening, when artificial light sources are included in the composition. In this case, the central subject of photography will be surrounded by a halo of multi-colored threads. In order to highlight the dominant feature of the frame in a composition, many photographers use flash when taking photographs.

Zoom effect in Photoshop

If the photographer does not have a camera with a zoom lens, then the blurred effect in the photo can be achieved using Photoshop tools. To do this, open the desired photo in the photo editor and turn on the following functions in sequence: “Filter” → “Blur” → “Radial Blur”. In the window, in the “Method” line, select “Linear/ZOOM”, and in the “Quality” line → “Best”. In the “Center” window, by moving the cross, select the point that will be the main subject of photography. Next, move the horizontal slider “Quantity” to select the level of the zoom effect and click “OK”. After the algorithm has been worked out, you can look at the processed photo. By changing the center point and level you can get interesting results.

The zoom effect allows you to get very interesting photographs, but this does not mean that you can shoot everything this way. Any technical technique in artistic photography must be used selectively and carefully. Beginner photographers are advised to avoid using Photoshop. Numerous experiments with the zoom effect and other techniques allow you to develop mastery, and this is the most important thing. If you entrust all the work to computer programs, then such an important component of photography as creativity will simply disappear.

Using the zoom effect in photography. Photography lesson.

It should be noted that here we are not talking about effects applied in a graphics editor (for example, Photoshop) after photography. And even more so, not about the effects built into your camera. In this lesson we will talk about some techniques for creatively choosing exposure parameters that can create certain effects during the photography process.

Standard exposure, which is most often set when shooting in full AUTO mode, sometimes creates false impressions of reality. For example, a scene filmed late in the afternoon may look as if the event took place in the morning. Another typical example: when photographing a moving object in automatic modes, the dynamism of the scene usually disappears due to the fact that the moving object turns out to be static (motionless).

Such “blunders” of the full automatic force us to move to more flexible and controllable manual exposure settings. But to reap the benefits of manual photography, exposure settings need to be used creatively.

How to use exposition creatively? If you want to enhance your photos, add vibrancy, dynamism, or other effects, you'll have to forget about automatic modes and get creative with your exposure settings: shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. To help you, I will give you a few tips, using which during photography, you will get interesting effects that can “revive” your photos.

High key and low key

High key is one of the effects in photography, characterized by the absence of dark details and low contrast in the image. High key usually gives a photo a romantic and soft feel.

You can take a high-key photo by using controlled overexposure (usually no more than two exposure units) and, preferably, isolating the subject using an open aperture (small depth of field) or a white background.

Low key is the opposite of high key. Low key images are characterized by a dark background and a fairly high contrast between the light and dark areas of the image. However, losing shadow detail is still not recommended.

When photographing in low key, you need to slightly underexpose the frame and preferably use a dark background. Low key is usually used when you need to emphasize the drama of the plot.

When using semi-automatic modes, overexposure or underexposure of the frame is possible in the exposure compensation mode. [+/-]

Selective focus

Selective focus is a very effective way to give your photo a special charm. The essence of this effect is that by controlling the camera's focus and depth of field in manual or aperture priority mode, you blur the secondary object so that it does not distract the viewer's attention from the main one, but still remains recognizable.

Look at the photo below: the main subject here is undoubtedly the butterfly. However, in the background, we can still make out a child holding this butterfly. Thus, having received two objects in the frame, we can tell the viewer which one is more important, and which one only complements the plot.

Retro effect with noise

You already know from our tutorials that high ISO settings introduce unwanted electronic noise into your photos. However, in some cases, noise in a photo can add a distinct mood to your subject, while high ISO settings allow you to shoot in relatively low light with an open aperture or without worrying about movement.

For example, when shooting elderly people with high ISO values, due to noise, it is possible to give the pictures some retro charm, which goes very well with the main character of the plot.

Speed Effects

The blur effect emphasizes dynamic scenes very well. In this case, some blurring of the subject gives the viewer the effect of movement, rather than lack of focus. In each specific case, the shutter speed length is selected individually, so that only the moving object itself remains blurred, and the background is not blurred due to movement

To create the motion blur effect, you need to use a slow shutter speed in Manual or Shutter Priority mode. The shutter speed depends on the speed of the object, the distance to it and its trajectory. The closer the distance to the object and/or the greater its speed, the shorter the shutter speed should be. You can also shorten the shutter speed a little if the object is moving perpendicular to the camera.

You can also emphasize the dynamics of movement in the frame by blurring the background, while the main object should remain as sharp as possible. This effect is achieved by shooting with wiring.

The rules for determining the shutter speed when photographing with wiring remain the same as in the previous case. However, when photographing with tracking, you need to move the camera along the trajectory of the object, trying to keep the object stationary relative to the boundaries of the frame. Remember to leave a little more space in front of the subject. At the right moment, you must release the shutter without stopping the camera's movement.

When doing live photography, it is useful to turn on autofocus tracking. If your camera does not have tracking autofocus, then you will have to constantly press and release the shutter button 1/2 of a way so that the subject is always in focus. Another, rather old but reliable way of focusing when shooting with wiring is that you focus in advance (in manual mode) on the intended shooting point and when the subject reaches this point, press the shutter release, naturally, continuing to move the camera behind the subject.

Driving photography is a rather difficult way to emphasize movement in the frame. You may have to practice quite a bit before you achieve the desired effect.

In some cases, a moving object looks more expressive if it is shot using the “freeze motion” method.

The essence of the “frozen motion” effect is that you must set a fairly fast shutter speed, so that the moving object is “frozen in the frame” without any signs of movement. Sounds paradoxical, doesn't it? A moving object with no signs of movement :o) - this is the best way to shoot moving objects that are completely separated from the surface. And this is exactly the method your camera tries to implement when setting exposure in sports/motion/children/pets mode.

Slow sync

The effect of slow sync is that you are shooting a frame with two shutter speeds. The first, very short shutter speed is obtained when the flash is fired (short pulse), and the second, longer, is obtained directly using the camera shutter. As a result, you can get a clear subject against a background of varying blur. Although this method is similar to the regular motion blur effect, it differs in that in this case you shoot with the flash on.

The slow sync effect is usually obtained when shooting with flash in program mode or shutter priority mode, and of course with some training, in fully manual M mode. The main thing here is to choose the shutter speed length, which should correspond to the background illumination without a flash.

If your camera does not have manual settings, I advise you to try the “Night Portrait” mode - this mode uses a similar algorithm for adjusting exposure parameters.

Be careful when taking long exposure photographs - very often long exposures require the use of a tripod or strong hands. Otherwise, the main subject will not be sharp.

1. Take three identical pictures - with normal exposure, high key and low key. What emotions and associations arise when you carefully study each of these photographs?

2. Master shooting moving objects - with tracking

Using the zoom effect in photography. Photography lesson.

This effect can be used by owners of SLR cameras with zoom lenses and advanced digital compacts with manual zoom, for example Sony R1.

If you want to experiment with your digital camera and get interesting pictures, use the zoom effect. The zoom effect is that the object in the photo seems more voluminous, as if it is moving closer to the person looking at it or, conversely, moving away from it.

There are several ways to achieve this effect, for example, using digital photo processing programs, but we will give an example of how to achieve the zoom effect directly using the camera. What is needed to get this effect? It is necessary to set a long shutter speed and while you are taking the photo (between opening and closing the shutter), use the zoom - either bring the subject closer or further away. This is the basic method, but in general, to get an interesting photo you just need to practice and experiment a lot

Here are some tips to help you get a good result.

The camera should be stationary - since you will be using a fairly slow shutter speed, any movement of the camera will affect the photo. Camera movement can also add an interesting effect to a photo, but it can make it overly blurry, so try to use a tripod or place the camera on a flat, stationary surface.
When using the zoom effect, it is better to avoid bright lighting. Because you'll be using a slow shutter speed, more light will enter the camera than needed. A large aperture will help to cope with this problem (the larger the number, the smaller the hole through which light enters). But even in this case, the photo may turn out overexposed. Therefore, when experimenting with the zoom effect, avoid bright lighting.
Experiment with lights. To practice the zoom effect and get unusual photos, take pictures of different lights (street lights, Christmas lights, neon signs, etc.).
If you don't have the ability to zoom, you can manually either move the camera closer to or away from your subject. Of course, in this case it will not be possible to avoid unnecessary camera vibrations, but the result can nevertheless be interesting.
When choosing a shutter speed, experiment, because... Different situations may require different speeds.
Use a “smooth” zoom - turn the lens during shooting not sharply, but more gently, which will make the lines smoother .
Another way to use the zoom effect is to pause while zooming, either at the very beginning, in the middle, or at the end (while the shutter is still open). In this case, the object that will be “captured” during such a pause will be sharper.
Use a flash, it will help “freeze” part of the photo while the rest of it is in motion.
Moving closer to an object can give a completely different result than moving away, so experiment with both.

Use these tips, but most importantly, experiment and you can get interesting and unique pictures.

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How to properly blow up your zoom

by Alfred Forns

Surely many novice photographers have come across abstract photographs in which the images simply explode with supernova objects that attract the eye, but looking at which it is not always clear what was shot, and most importantly, how it was shot? What is this and how can you reproduce something like this?

by Stuart Richards

Zoom explosion, or zoom blur, is a fantastic photographic effect that is simple, fun and easy. The technique involves changing the scale while the image itself is being captured, i.e. when the camera shutter is released. Of course, you can get not just abstract photographs of some kind of thermonuclear explosion, with a similar effect you can achieve an interesting movement in the composition, when the visual blurring of the picture from the center outward brings life to the entire scene.

This technique does not require any special equipment, cunning devices or tricky skills. Any photographer with a DSLR with a zoom lens and a tripod can pull off this kind of skill.

First, you will have to start by mounting the camera on a tripod. You'll be using long shutter speeds, and keeping the camera steady while shooting will help keep blurred lines straight. If the desire to take an abstract photograph with a zoom blur suddenly seizes you and you don’t have a tripod at hand, you can lean your back against a tree - you need to take the most stable position possible.

by Monsieur Lam

The second step is to select shutter priority mode. Your range is from 1 to 4 seconds. Turn the zoom lens to its widest possible angle and focus on the subject. After you press the shutter button, try to gently, evenly return the lens to the reverse position when the subject is as close as possible. The timing of the zoom movement should be as close as possible to the exposure time. The smoother your zoom, the neater the lines will appear in the image.

by Boris Jordan

The main rule of the photographer: “Before you press the shutter button, you need to compose the frame.”

If your shot appears overexposed, try using a narrower aperture, installing an ND filter, or increasing your shutter speed. A change of even 1/8 of a second can work and give you the desired effect. The only inconvenience will be that you will have to move the zoom faster; it may not turn out smoothly and accurately at once.

Almost any subject can be photographed in this way and get a stunning effect of scale. But, as a rule, photos turn out best if the subject has a lot of color or a rhythmic pattern. Try photographing things like stained glass windows or city lights. The zoom blur technique offers ample opportunities for creativity.

by Laura Caiels

If you are lucky enough to have a camera with a fixed lens or have a regular compact, you can try modifying the technique and rotating directly with the camera itself. What will be the result? Spectacular spirals that twist real space into illusory whirlpools.

An interesting effect can be achieved by combining the explosive zoom technique with slow flash synchronization. (Read our tutorials for beginner photographers to learn about slow flash sync.)

by Ricardo Lucas

Zoom blur is ideal for night photography. Due to the long exposure times, bright lights create stunning light trails in the photograph.

By the way, it is not necessary to use the full range of focal lengths when zooming. It's even better if you experiment with a smaller zoom range to see the difference in effects firsthand.

For fun, you can also try zooming with pauses. For example, at the beginning or end of an exhibition. Or, let's say, linger in the middle.

Zoom blur photography is a creative photography, so experiments are not only encouraged, but also necessary, because they contribute to the development of a unique perception and help beginners in photography look at many familiar things from an unusual side.

by steven ibinson

Photogora video channel

How to shoot a report with a long-focus zoom: filming in the theater

Today I'll start talking about some of my favorite lenses, and as illustrations I'll select photos taken at festivals and theater venues. I note that this set of lenses is suitable for any reportage photography, although in this article I will show pictures taken specifically in the theater.

I'll start with the most common one. Virtually every photographer who frequently works with theatrical subjects has something similar to my AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm F2.8G ED VR II. The popularity of this “glass” is quite explained by the demand for focal lengths.

In the case of Nikkor, this is also a high aperture, in which aperture 2.8 can be considered absolutely working. In conditions of constant lack of light, most frames are taken at 2.8, and these are sharp frames with excellent detail. The stabilizer of this lens (and its new version AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm f/2.8E FL ED VR) is very effective in any shooting situation when you need to shoot handheld at long shutter speeds or long focal lengths. The autofocus motor works flawlessly both in a new lens and after many years of use. I find the AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm F2.8G ED VR II's ability to focus quickly and accurately in extremely difficult lighting conditions to be truly amazing. So, you can safely choose a shooting point directly opposite the side spotlight and be sure that the camera will take a precisely focused shot, even if you simply cannot see the artist in the light stream. An excellent focusing unit in the camera plus a stabilizer and lens motor always give a sharp shot.

Working with 70-200, you can calmly engage in photography - technical problems largely fade into the background.

Personally, I really like its heaviness: the AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm F2.8G ED VR II weighs almost one and a half kilograms, while it fits well in the hand, the tremor is practically extinguished - the so-called stabilization by its own weight.

Attention, advice! In order for pictures taken in a theater environment to always be focused, and for the camera to deliver maximum performance, several conditions must be met.

Firstly, the optics must be clean to work correctly. Impeccably. Always.

Secondly, the camera must regularly undergo regular maintenance at a service center, including setup and cleaning.

Thirdly, the lens must have a standard lens hood. Think of the hood as part of the optical design of your lens and work only with it.

Fourth, always work without protective and other filters, except when they are really needed. Any filter complicates the optical design, and this gives a certain percentage of unfocused frames in difficult theatrical lighting conditions. This will be especially noticeable when shooting with harsh side or frontal light. I recommend removing filters at theater venues - perhaps this will help you not miss the focus and get “that shot.”

Of course, there are many nuances hidden in the camera settings and the practical experience of the photographer. But following the simple rules that I wrote about above will give you a 25 percent increase in correctly focused frames, which is very important. Of course, the advice concerns filming in specific conditions - in the theater.

What can you shoot with a long lens? Portrait? Yes, of course, the AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm F2.8G ED VR II will give you the ability to get a close-up shot, even if the artist is on the opposite side of the stage. But when working with a portrait, do not forget that the artist has hands! try to build a composition so that your hands are present in the portrait frame, this can help you deepen the image and give it expressiveness.

You can capture the viewer’s attention by introducing background elements into the frame that echo the emotional state of the main character. This applies to both the stage and behind-the-scenes stories. Look wider, notice everything that is happening.

But the capabilities of the lens, of course, are not limited to this. You can move further away, for example, into the depths of the auditorium, and shoot from afar at 70 mm. In most theaters, at this focal length you will get the entire scene in frame. This is useful both for the general plan in a theatrical production, and in order to show, for example, the scale of what is happening - imagine a small figure of an artist on a huge stage. When building a vertical frame, you can look for the shooting point and include spotlights in the frame - sometimes this is a very advantageous technique, emphasizing the atmosphere and referring the viewer to the theatricality of what is happening.

You can leave the plane and soar upward. Go up to the highest tier in the auditorium or ask to go to the lighting box. When shooting from above, take advantage of the ability to change the focal length from 70 to 200 mm: the top shooting point gives us both the opportunity to work with shadows at relatively wide focal lengths, and not miss spectacular close-ups with hands at a long focal length (200 mm). The top shooting point is almost always located on the side of the main light stream illuminating the artist, so the photographer, when shooting from above, receives some gain in light. You can shorten the shutter speed or lower the ISO. You can also close the aperture for greater depth of field, especially if you are shooting a duet or there are many important objects in the frame, each of which should be in focus. Remember this feature of the high points and use them mainly in performances with insufficient lighting.

In all other cases, also analyze the direction of the main light flows in the frame and use them consciously. For the theater, where lighting is entirely built on artificial and tinted light, the ability and desire to understand the lighting scheme in each scene is very important; this gives the photographer that degree of freedom that distinguishes a professional from a random person.

One more tip! I recommend working with a fixed camera whenever possible. Do you have a tripod and somewhere to put it? We work from a tripod. Monopod? Even better, most theater photographers use a monopod. Is there neither one nor the other? The camera can be propped up against a spotlight stand, placed on the edge of the stage, or on a stool, after all. This is important and interesting not only when using long-focus optics! A fixed camera expands your photographic capabilities in many ways. There are situations when it is beneficial for a photographer to work with a shutter speed that is obviously slower than reasonable. For example, to emphasize movement, you can lengthen the shutter to 1/30, 1/15, 1/5, even 1/2 second. When working with a plot in which there is a contrast of dynamics (for example, a motionless main character and other artists moving around, a corps de ballet, even scenery), think about long shutter speeds. By the way, when working with the AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm F2.8G ED VR II from a tripod, it is better to turn off the stabilizer. Otherwise, select Normal mode.

The possibilities of long-focus optics in the theater are almost limitless. In addition to the 70-200, Nikon makes several other excellent telephotos for theater work, for example, the AF-S NIKKOR 300mm f/2.8G ED VR II and the AF-S NIKKOR 200mm F2.0G IF-ED VRII. Fixed focal lengths somewhat limit the versatility of use, but everything is redeemed by the amazing image quality that these lenses can produce.

It matters what you shoot with. It is important whether you know how to use all the opportunities that modern technology provides. But the most important thing for a photographer is talent, desire for creativity, patience and understanding of what to tell the viewer.

All shots were taken in 2016 at the Context festival. Diana Vishneva.